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Address dark spots
If dark spots are a concern, vitamin C can help brighten skin by indirectly preventing melanogenesis (pigmenting), says Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, a New York City-based dermatologist and clinical assistant professor at NY Presbyterian Hospital–Weill Cornell Medical Center. It’s an antioxidant that fights free radical damage from the environment to prevent the development of dark spots and other signs of skin aging.
“Look for products containing pure L-ascorbic acid and that are packaged in solar-resistant [think dark or opaque] containers to help maintain the stability of the vitamin C,” she adds. That’s not the only product that can target hyperpigmentation.
“Retinol and alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) can help to lighten dark spots by increasing exfoliation and skin cell turnover, but they also increase sun sensitivity, so excellent sun protection cannot be overemphasized,” says Dr. Murphy-Rose. Using these two ingredients at night is a good bet.
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Avoid irritation
Stick to a single active ingredient if you’re focusing on anti-aging to make sure that you are experiencing its full benefit, says Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research and assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York City.
That means it’s better to use a product with one main ingredient than a cream that packs in a laundry list of ingredients. Dr. Zeichner’s go-to active ingredient is a retinol. “I recommend combining your retinoid with a moisturizer if your skin gets irritated,” he says.
Apply moisturizer, then a layer of your retinoid of choice, and if you’re really dry, following that up with another layer of moisturizer on top.
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Slugging and anti-aging ingredients
Have you heard of slugging? This term refers to applying a layer of Vaseline on your skin at night, making you look shiny like a slug, hence the name.
If you want to slug without other active ingredients applied underneath, go for it. But Dr. Zeichner warns that if you are using Vaseline on top of anti-aging ingredients, it could be potentially irritating. “This can lead to more harm than good,” he explains. “The Vaseline forms an occlusive layer [over] retinol or hydroxy acids and enhances penetration. It can cause too much of a good effect, or make it too effective, leading to irritation.”
In other words, these products are designed to be sort of breathable, and layering an occlusive, like Vaseline, may turbocharge them a bit too much.
Below, the best anti-aging creams.
(Related: The Truth About Petrolatum: Does it Belong in Your Skin Care Products?)
